Devising strategies and producing cosmetics

Li Zhi advised Li Shimin that all those entering religious orders must undergo tonsure and strictly adhere to every rule of the temple; monasteries were no longer permitted to accept lay disciples at will. As matters stood, all lay disciples in the various temples must either shave their heads and truly convert, or immediately return to secular life. Yet these measures were not the harshest.

To prevent anyone from briefly seeking refuge in temples merely to evade corvée labor, Li Zhi further proposed that, once one chose to become a monk, they could not leave of their own accord within five years. If this rule was violated, not only would the individual have to make up the missed labor, but also pay all taxes owed during that period.

Five years was not a short span. Know that in the Tang Dynasty, the age for corvée service ranged from eighteen to about sixty—a golden period in anyone’s life. Who would willingly waste such valuable years cloistered in a monastery just to avoid a month or so of annual labor? Thus, unless truly devout, few would enter a temple unless driven by utter desperation. In this way, the rapid expansion of monasteries was also indirectly curbed.

At this moment, everyone stared in astonishment at Li Zhi. His proposal served multiple purposes: it severed the income of those evading taxes, cut off the population needed for monastery growth, and, moreover, thoroughly broke the connection between temples and vested interests. In this manner, the monasteries were quietly isolated.

There was but one judgment among the assembly regarding Li Zhi’s stratagem: ruthless! Too ruthless! It was as though he had slain those people’s parents!

Upon hearing Li Zhi’s advice, Li Shimin joyfully asked the others, “What do you all think of the Prince of Jin’s suggestion?”

The officials hastened to express their support. Thus, a new round of religious reform policies was swiftly announced.

Those who had previously schemed to evade taxes were now more grief-stricken than if their own mothers had died. Many cursed bitterly in private, declaring that whoever devised such a scheme in the court was truly lacking in virtue.

Soon enough, word spread that the idea had originated with Li Zhi. This news filled those people with both surprise and anger. They marveled at Li Zhi’s intelligence, yet resented him for being so thorough. Many who were forced back into secular life because of his suggestion bore a deep hatred for him. And so a conspiracy against Li Zhi quietly took shape.

Li Zhi had no time to concern himself with any of this. He was busy preparing a birthday gift for his mother. The middle of March was fast approaching, and Empress Zhangsun’s birthday fell precisely on the fifteenth.

Li Zhi and Li Yin were preparing a set of cosmetics for the Empress Zhangsun. The idea arose because Li Yin could now help him refine many useful chemical ingredients—not only three acids and two bases, but alcohol, various metals, and oxides as well. With these, he could make soap and perfume, and even face cream and lipstick.

It was the blossoming season, and Li Zhi had ordered the gathering of several fragrant flowers. Li Zhi, Li Yin, and Liu An divided their tasks: Li Yin was responsible for refining the ingredients Li Zhi needed, while Li Zhi and Liu An mixed, stirred, and poured the materials into molds or containers.

Their first creation was perfume. This required placing petals and other aromatics in distilled water and distilling them. The resulting steam was condensed, then mixed with a small amount of animal fat and reheated. Once the fat melted, they waited patiently for the essential oils to separate. With the essential oil in hand, they added alcohol and distilled water, stirred, let it settle, and filtered out impurities to obtain true perfume.

To ensure the scent was well-balanced, Li Zhi even placed the bottled perfume in ice for aging. After perfume, making soap was simpler: alcohol and essential oil were blended with animal fat, stirred thoroughly, and a bit of base added to accelerate solidification, then poured into prepared molds.

The process for face cream and lipstick was much the same, though face cream needed additional medicinal ingredients such as honeysuckle and honey. Li Zhi also took the opportunity to make toothpaste, sparing himself the trouble of using his fingers to brush with tooth powder every day.

Aside from soap, everything was stored in glass containers. To that end, they developed molds with screw threads. Liu An had long since mastered glassmaking, and even added different metal oxides to produce glass of various colors.

Li Zhi took these containers to Pei Feishu, asking him to craft two exquisite gift boxes.

Since the gifts were from both Li Zhi and Li Yin, he asked Pei Feishu to use different colored packaging.

Li Zhi not only prepared his own gift, but also helped Li Lizhi prepare hers—his relationship with his sister was closest, and he would not forget her at such a moment.

Once finished, Li Zhi organized the manufacturing methods and designed some specialized equipment. Next, he planned to go to the ironworks to research stainless steel production techniques with Baken. When the time came, he would use stainless steel to manufacture a set of equipment for cosmetic production.

On Empress Zhangsun’s birthday, all the imperial princes and princesses gathered to celebrate. The consorts of the harem had arrived early at the Hall of Governance to keep her company, and even Li Shimin finished his work ahead of schedule, arriving before noon.

Before the meal, as was tradition, each prince and princess presented their gifts to Empress Zhangsun. Beginning with Li Chengqian, the order was quickly set.

As crown prince, Li Chengqian’s household lacked for nothing, but he was careful in choosing his gift, knowing both Li Shimin and Empress Zhangsun disliked extravagance. He personally designed a gold hairpin for the Empress.

Presenting it, Li Chengqian wished her, “May mother’s happiness endure forever, and her blessings and longevity be boundless.”

Empress Zhangsun, delighted, replied, “Good, good! Mother also hopes you will soon become accomplished, and help your father shoulder his burdens.”

Li Chengqian answered, “Your son will obey mother’s command.”

Next was Prince Wu, Li Ke, who offered a pair of exquisite earrings. His usual conduct had earned the favor of both Empress Zhangsun and Li Shimin, so she praised and encouraged him as well.

Then came Li Tai. The boy had grown quite chubby lately, but under Wang Gui’s guidance his studies had greatly improved. His gift was a flower-and-bird painting by Yuchi Yiseng. He was thoughtful, knowing Empress Zhangsun loved art, and sought out Yuchi Yiseng, renowned alongside Yan Liben.

Why not ask Yan Liben, famous for figure painting? Because the two brothers were too close to Li Zhi.